North Dakota: The Heartland Finale
From Devil’s Tower we push north through the rolling grasslands and then expansive farmlands of western North Dakota to Medora, a tiny yet big little town about 27 miles east of the Montana boarder on I94. This rural ND town has a permanent population of about 150 people and a summer population of thousands. Yes, thousands and that is an estimate because there aren’t records for how many seasonal employees actually pass through but there are entire complexes built to house seasonal workers. Why? Is it the Theodore Roosevelt National Park… nope. Is it the wonderful weather… nope. Is it the Medora Musical and it’s 60 year history of hillside theatrical showmanship… YES… yes it is 😊 Cue the Greatest Showman theme song, western wear, a really big flag 🇺🇸 and some good ol’ rough riding Teddy Roosevelt spunk and you get the foundation for the Medora Musical.
Harold Schaffer was a North Dakota entrepreneur and businessman who founded the Medora Musical. Harold and Sheila (wife) founded the Medora musical following the close of “Old four Eyes”, a production created for Theadore Roosevelt’s 100th birthday celebration at his name sake’s National Park. The production took place in an open-air amphitheater dug out of the side of a hill outside the National Park in Medora. This location has been updated many times but since 1965 the Medora Musical has carried the tradition of a Wild West variety show forward each year. The production is different every year, with a majority of the cast also changing with each summer production season.
We had heard of the musical and even explored a workamping (seasonal work in exchange for an RV site) position in Medora but had no idea the context of the town or the production beyond its affiliation with our 26th President of the United States, Theodore “Teddy” Roosevelt. We were very impressed with the heritage and quality of the musical and even more impressed when you realize this is all done in a place the natives called “the badlands” due to its inhospitable terrain, poor water supply and extreme temperatures. The land is beautiful and is home to the Roosevelt National Park for a reason but this is not a Mecca of relaxation and posh living, quite the opposite. Roosevelt or “TR” as he is referred in ND famously referenced a “strenuous life” as a philosophy of overcoming hardship through bold and vigorous behavior. He attributed that vigorous life to living and learning a hardened life as a rancher in North Dakota. TR’s Rough Rider persona was an extension from his time in ND and was an instrumental component of his Volunteer Cavalry Regiment’s taking of San Juan Hill in Cuba. This military victory would bring TR to the White House and earn him the lasting respect of the Medora area faithful as well as his enshrinement on Rushmore and much of the US’s rise to a world power.
This is the set for the Medora Musical. Starting with the finale in all its glory!
The program starts at 7:30 just as the sun is setting to the west. The theater is lower center of this picture just past the tower, which is an elevator for disabled access. The amphitheater can seat up to 1200 and they restrict seating on the wings except for high-capacity dates. FYI - Wednesday is “kids day” and they get in free so plan accordingly travel families!
Sheriff Pinkerton drew Robert’s attention and he very patiently showed Robert his pistols. Did I mention he was patient!
Robert was ready to sign up to be a Pinkerton!
We didn’t participate but before the show is a “Pitchfork and Steak” feed. Yes they cook steaks on real pitchforks (back of picture) in large vats of cooking oil. Looked like fun but a tad pricey for our crew. Live music was included so we enjoyed that from the side!
Yeah the amphitheater was down the mountain… way down!
They had the kids all come to the stage and sing This Little Light of Mine with the cast guiding them and even teaching them the hand signals to the song.
Robert did great and is second row in front of the yellow hat behind the pink hat girl.
The show involved story telling of Teddy Roosevelt’s exploits in North Dakota and this scene of his Rough Riders charging San Juan Hill in Cuba during the Spanish American War. There were real riders charging the opposite hills where the Medora sign is set. Pretty cool!
It was an All American Finale with the crowd signing along to America the Beautiful with fireworks.
We tried the mechanical bull… but it didn’t work so Robert road freestyle :)
4 baby birds greeted us while we waited for breakfast at a local restaurant.
Jr Ranger badges complete.
A replica of TR’s cabin. Hard to imagine a 1900s President living a simple life like this but it was a distinctive piece of his “vigorous life”.
The Roosevelt National Park is a winding road of melting hills and grassland. We didn’t experience the robust wildlife of the park but we did get to see a bison, a few wild horses, deer, a coyote and a bunch of prairie dog.
Moon rising over the mountains was pretty cool but the iPhone doesn’t do moon and evening well. Still a cool shot.
The park has 4 sections and we did the South Park and the Painted Canyon. This is the later.
This view is immediately off I94 and while there are a few hikes along the rim, it is a cliffside view of the canyons and hills that makes this worth a stop if you’re passing through.
Medora is in a valley between some rock buttes. Our RV nestled into one of the rock slopes.
Water is scarce in the area but this is the Little Missouri River. Its muddy but the primary water source for the area.
The butte in the distance is I94 and the start of the Roosevelt National Park, with Medora nestled in at its base.
Wild horses roaming the park.
An unexpected treat, the Medora Hot Air Ballon Rally was scheduled during our stop so we added to the bucket list and got to see about a dozen ballon’s and even got Michele and Robert a tethered ride. The previously extremely windy weather died down for the rally but unfortunately the wind died completely so the balloons couldn’t fly without minimal wind to clear the National Park. The tethered rides were the consultation 😎
The launch was scheduled for 6:30am so we were up in the 40 degree morning air to see the set up and launch.
Pretty amazing to see them lay out the ballons and meticulously spread them out, checking tension ropes inside and outside the ballon before inflating with the blowers.
Vince took a drive up to the top of the butte to get a 150ft view of the ballons.
Unfortunately ballooning is subject to the whims and fancy of mother-nature. If she doesn’t blow, they can’t really fly, especially with a National Park nearby where they are fined if they land there. So they tethered the ballons and the owners gave free rides for spectators to experience the ballooning sensation and get some cool pictures.
Michele and Robert loved it!
Our final push through the Heartland is across North Dakota to Fargo, where we spent a one-night supply/laundry stop at the Red River Valley Fairgrounds. We fly out of Minneapolis to return to Orland for some family time and to prayerfully complete an interview for a job we hope to have when we return to Florida in November. More on the job later but prayers appreciated! Also prayers for our family’s first flight with everyone!
According to billboards on I94 this is the largest bison in North Dakota… those are full-sized trees :) Driving such a long stretch of interstate through ND, I guess the locals feel a need to keep travelers entertained with “stuff”…. some better than others.
This was one of the better than others. Dickinson, ND is host to the Enchanted Highway, which is a series of very large sculptures of “stuff”. Some artistic and others just gwackable. We didn’t venture down the highway with the RV but probably should have.
The ItsDillerTime RV had done battle over the last 13 months. Battle with the insect horde! We estimate we have taken out a few million but that count has risen sharply in the Great Plains with the peak bug/mile being eastern North Dakota. Seriously, this was cleaned an hour ago!
We are pushing through to Minnesota and will surely take out a few more swarms!
